First, mark out the cut lines from below, then drill up through the ceiling at various points. Then, saw through the ceiling from above (following the drill- hole guides), while an assistant stands on a ladder below holding a large cardboard box against the ceiling to catch the dust as it falls.

Brick is a very popular material. However, over time, the mortar that holds bricks together can become cracked or loose due to aging and settling of the house. That's when it's time for "pointing." Brick pointing is the process wherein you remove and replace any damaged or missing mortar between the bricks. First, chip away any cracked or loose mortar with a chisel and hammer. Be careful not to damage the bricks. Then sweep it off with a brush. Brush on the joints with water, so dry bricks don't draw the moisture out of the mortar. Then squish it in place with a mason's trowel -- vertical joints first, then horizontal, removing the excess and shaping it with a jointer.

For hole-free walls, here's what to do. Before you get to hammering on a paper wall, cut a small V right where you want your picture hook; then wet it down, peel back the V and pound in your nail or hook. Then, when you're ready to take it down, dampen the V and smooth it back. If you want to skip holes altogether, hang your stuff from up above with fishing line. It's almost invisible. And if you're going to hang a whole bunch of things, lay them all out on the floor on paper first. Then hold them up and do the above right where you want them.

If the doors in your home are hollow, chances are you've had to, or will have to, repair a hole in a door. Simply cut out the damaged area in the shape of a square. A razor knife and small rat-tail saw will work nicely. Next, cut a piece of backer board from quarter-inch plywood that is a couple of inches larger than the opening -- in both directions. You'll need to cut the backer board in half to get it into the hole. Apply a bead of glue to the face of the backer board and place it against the inside face of the door. Use a few drywall screws to secure the material. Once the glue has dried, remove the screws and cut a piece of eighth-inch plywood into the exact dimensions of the square hole. Set it in the hole and it should fit over the backer board flush with the door. Glue the patch into place, putty, sand and paint.

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If you have floors that squeak, here is a quick tip that will quiet things down without muss or fuss. If the squeak is between the sub and finished floors and you can get at it from down below, drill a small hole only through the sub floor just slightly bigger than the nozzle of a spray can of foam insulation. Then insert the nozzle of the spray foam and inject a small dollop of foam. When it hardens, it'll stop any movement between the floors and the annoying squeak. Just be sure to set something heavy on the finished floor above until the foam hardens and cures a bit.

After using a caulk gun, rather that throwing a half empty tube of caulk because it will dry up, do the following. Screw an electrical wire nut fastener on the end of the caulk tube. This will keep the caulk from drying up, and the next time you use it, it will be like new.

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Having a hard time cleaning your hands after working on the car or lawnmower? Try this tip. Before you start work apply, hand cream to your hands, and be sure to get around your fingernails. You will be surprised how easy your hands clean up when you are done.

If you have to remove trim around a door or window and you plan to re-use the trim, don't drive the nails out the front side of the trim. Take a pair of snips and pull the nail through the board from the backside. If you try to drive the nail out, it will splinter the face of the trim, but if you pull the nail through the backside most times you won't even see where the nail was!

Use a pair of old pantyhose for storage of bulbs during the winter and remember to store the bulbs in a cool, dry place. This method allows the air to circulate, which will help you avoid mold.

Try this trick to easily cut asphalt shingles. For thick asphalt shingles, try using a pair of long handle, straight-cut metal snips. The snips make cutting the shingle a snap. Be sure that this is a pair of metal snips that you won't need to use again, because the snips won't cut metal after cutting shingles.